Making a wildflower area for bees
A meadow is made by reducing fertility and weakening grass, not by scattering seed on a lawn. The single most useful plant in the process is a parasite.
Why scattering seed fails
The commonest approach — buying a wildflower mix and scattering it on existing grass — almost always fails, and for a specific reason. Grass in a fertile lawn outcompetes wildflower seedlings comprehensively. The seed germinates, the grass shades it out, and by the second summer there is nothing left but grass and a few annual poppies.
Establishing a meadow is therefore a matter of reducing fertility and weakening the grass first. Everything else follows from that.
The method that works
- Reduce fertilityStop feeding. Remove all cuttings rather than leaving them to rot back in. This takes several years and is unavoidable.
- Sow yellow rattleIn autumn, onto closely mown and scarified turf. It is hemiparasitic on grass roots and reduces grass vigour by up to half, opening space for everything else.
- Cut and removeCut in late July or August after the flowers have set seed, leave the cuttings a few days to drop seed, then remove them entirely.
- Add plug plantsSowing seed into established grass rarely works. Plug plants of knapweed, oxeye daisy, bird's-foot trefoil and scabious establish far more reliably.
- Cut pathsMow paths through it. It looks intentional rather than neglected, which matters more than it should.
- WaitThree to five years to a genuine meadow. There is no shortcut.
What to include
| Plant | Why |
|---|---|
| Yellow rattle | Weakens grass; the enabling species |
| Knapweed | The backbone; also pollen for the scarce scabious mining bee |
| Bird's-foot trefoil | Legume pollen for long-tongued specialists |
| Oxeye daisy | Open accessible composite |
| Field and small scabious | Late season; specialist mining bee pollen |
| Red clover | Deep flowers for long-tongued bumblebees |
| Devil's-bit scabious | Latest of all, into October |
| Catsear and hawkbits | Yellow composites for the shaggy bee specialists |
| Red bartsia | Supports a bee that exists almost nowhere else |
| Wild carrot | Umbellifer for the smallest solitary bees |
The nesting half
A meadow that is all flowers and no bare ground supports foraging and not reproduction. Leave a south-facing bank, a path edge or a scrape of bare soil unvegetated and undisturbed. Around seventy per cent of bee species nest in the ground, and in a meadow they will be nesting at the edges rather than in the sward.
Leave tussocky grass uncut in places too. Several carder bumblebees nest at the surface in tussocks, and a mower is the commonest cause of their nests failing.
Managing expectations
A first-year meadow looks like an annual bedding display, because that is what the poppies and cornflowers in most mixes are. A third-year meadow looks like grass with flowers in it. A fifth-year meadow on reduced fertility looks like what people mean by a meadow. Anyone unwilling to accept the middle years should plant a border instead, which is a perfectly good thing to do.
Sources
- Assessment Report on Pollinators, Pollination and Food Production — Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services (IPBES) (2016) · Systematic review Link
- Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland — Bloomsbury (2015) · Field guide
- Bumblebees: Behaviour, Ecology, and Conservation — Oxford University Press (2010) · Monograph
How sources are selected and weighted is set out in the sources and evidence policy.
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