Snowdrop
The first forage of the year in much of Europe, and a genuine one rather than a token. Snowdrops flower in January and February and offer both nectar and pollen on the rare warm days when a honey bee breaks cluster to fly. The quantity is small, but there is nothing to compare it against — in midwinter a colony's alternatives are usually nothing at all.
Caution
All parts of the bulb are toxic if eaten, and the bulbs are occasionally mistaken for small onions.
Value to bees
- Nectar
- Low
- Pollen
- Moderate
- As a honey crop
- Not a honey source
- Which bees, and why
- Worked by honey bees on mild winter days — bees returning with the pale grey-white snowdrop pollen are a familiar sight to beekeepers checking hives in February. Early bumblebee queens, increasingly active in winter in mild urban areas, use them too.
Nodding flowers with the nectar at the top of a hanging bell, so a bee has to work upward into it. Short-tongued bees manage, but it is not effortless forage.
- Worth knowing
- Rated low for nectar and it matters anyway, which is the clearest case on the site for why timing belongs alongside quantity. A moderate pollen source in February is worth more to a colony than a high one in July.
Flowering
- In flower
- January to March (northern hemisphere)
January and February in most of lowland Britain and western Europe, later at altitude and further north. Individual clumps flower for several weeks.
- When nectar flows
- Nectar is produced in small quantities and the flowers only open properly above roughly 10 °C, which conveniently matches the temperature at which a honey bee will fly at all.
- Year-to-year variation
- Never a crop, and never intended as one. What it provides is the possibility of forage on a warm winter day.
Growing it
- Conditions
- Part shade, moist humus-rich soil that does not dry out in summer. Happiest under deciduous trees and shrubs, flowering before the canopy closes.
- Size
- 10-20 cm.
- Native range
- Continental Europe from the Pyrenees to Ukraine. Long naturalised in Britain, where it is almost certainly an ancient introduction rather than a native.
- Suits
- Containers and window boxes, Small gardens, Large gardens, Orchard
- Plant in the green — as growing plants just after flowering — rather than as dry bulbs, which establish poorly.
- Clumps congest over time and flower less. Lift and divide every three or four years immediately after flowering.
- Naturalises readily in grass and under shrubs, and a large drift is the work of leaving it alone for a decade.
What it looks like
A small bulb with two or three strap-shaped grey-green leaves and a single nodding white flower with three long outer segments and three short inner ones marked with a green notch.
Sources
- Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland — Bloomsbury (2015) · Field guide
- HoneyHQ editorial synthesis — HEKNO Ltd · HoneyHQ synthesis
How sources are selected and weighted is set out in the sources and evidence policy.
Guides covering this plant
- How to make a garden genuinely useful to beesMost bee-friendly advice covers flowers in June, which is the one thing bees are least short of. The gaps are at the ends of the year — and half the problem is not flowers at all.
- Winter forage: plants that flower for bees from November to MarchBees fly on mild winter days and most gardens offer them nothing. Filling the November-to-March gap is the single highest-value planting decision a temperate garden can make, and it takes about six plants.
- A bee-friendly garden in Britain and IrelandAround 270 bee species, one honey bee among them, and a climate that gives you flowering months at both ends of the year that most of the world does not get. The British gaps are February and late June, and both are fixable.
Tools for planning planting
- Flowering calendar
What should I plant so that something is always in flower for bees?
- Bee-friendly garden planner
What should I plant in the space I actually have?
- Plant recommendation tool
Which plant fills this specific gap?