Crocus
The first substantial pollen most garden honey bees see, and one of the very few February flowers that offers it in quantity. A crocus opens only in sun and warmth — the flower is a thermometer — which means it is available precisely when a bee is able to fly and shut when it is not. A drift of them under a tree costs almost nothing and does real work.
Caution
Autumn crocus in the sense of Colchicum autumnale is a different plant in a different family and is seriously toxic. True Crocus species are not.
Value to bees
- Nectar
- Moderate
- Pollen
- Very high
- As a honey crop
- Not a honey source
- Which bees, and why
- Worked hard by honey bees on any mild sunny winter day, and by emerging bumblebee queens. The open goblet gives complete access to both stamens and nectar once the flower has warmed enough to open.
Fully open once warm, with exposed pollen and easily reached nectar — accessible to short-tongued bees, which is exactly what is needed this early.
- Worth knowing
- Very high pollen at a point in the year when pollen is the binding constraint on a colony starting to raise brood. Bees return from crocus carrying enormous bright orange loads, which is one of the most cheerful sights in a February apiary.
Flowering
- In flower
- January to April (northern hemisphere)
The early species crocuses — Crocus tommasinianus and C. chrysanthus — flower from January and February, well before the large Dutch hybrids. Autumn-flowering species extend the genus into September and October.
- When nectar flows
- The flowers are thermonastic: they open above roughly 10 °C and close again when it cools or clouds over. That happens to be almost exactly the threshold at which honey bees will fly, so the forage is available whenever it can be used.
- Year-to-year variation
- Reliable every year once established. Never a crop — what matters is the date, not the volume.
Growing it
- Conditions
- Full sun to light shade, sharp drainage. It rots in wet ground.
- Size
- 8-15 cm.
- Native range
- Southern Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and central Asia.
- Suits
- Containers and window boxes, Small gardens, Large gardens, Orchard, Meadow or wildflower area
- Plant the early species crocuses rather than only the large Dutch hybrids — Crocus tommasinianus flowers weeks earlier and naturalises freely in grass.
- Naturalise in lawns and under deciduous trees, and do not mow until the foliage has died back in May.
- Plant in generous drifts. A dozen crocuses is decoration; two hundred is forage.
- Squirrels and mice dig up newly planted corms. Tommasinianus is markedly less attractive to them than the large hybrids.
What it looks like
A small corm producing grassy leaves with a pale central stripe and goblet-shaped flowers in purple, white, yellow or striped, opening flat in sun to reveal prominent orange stamens.
Sources
- Field Guide to the Bees of Great Britain and Ireland — Bloomsbury (2015) · Field guide
- HoneyHQ editorial synthesis — HEKNO Ltd · HoneyHQ synthesis
How sources are selected and weighted is set out in the sources and evidence policy.
Guides covering this plant
- Pollen plants explainedPollen is protein and it is what bee larvae are made of. A garden with abundant nectar and no pollen supports adult bees and produces no new ones.
- How to actually help beesRanked by how much difference it makes, from the things that genuinely work down to the things that are mostly gestures. The first item on the list is not planting flowers.
- How to make a garden genuinely useful to beesMost bee-friendly advice covers flowers in June, which is the one thing bees are least short of. The gaps are at the ends of the year — and half the problem is not flowers at all.
- Winter forage: plants that flower for bees from November to MarchBees fly on mild winter days and most gardens offer them nothing. Filling the November-to-March gap is the single highest-value planting decision a temperate garden can make, and it takes about six plants.
- The best plants for beesA shortlist chosen on three criteria: how much nectar and pollen the plant produces, how accessible it is to different bees, and when it flowers. Season coverage matters more than any individual plant.
- Bee plants through the yearThe gaps matter more than the peaks. Almost every garden has plenty in June and nothing in February, and it is the empty months that limit what a garden can support.
- Spring plants for beesSpring forage decides how many colonies exist by summer. A bumblebee queen who cannot find pollen in March does not found a colony, and a honey bee colony without early pollen cannot build.
- Bee plants for a small gardenA small garden cannot do everything, so it should do the things large gardens usually skip: the winter and early spring gaps, and nesting habitat. Both take almost no space.
- Bee plants for a balconyBees will find a balcony several floors up, and containers can be genuinely productive. The constraints are watering, wind and depth, and the plants that handle all three are mostly Mediterranean herbs.
- A bee-friendly garden in Britain and IrelandAround 270 bee species, one honey bee among them, and a climate that gives you flowering months at both ends of the year that most of the world does not get. The British gaps are February and late June, and both are fixable.
Tools for planning planting
- Flowering calendar
What should I plant so that something is always in flower for bees?
- Bee-friendly garden planner
What should I plant in the space I actually have?
- Plant recommendation tool
Which plant fills this specific gap?