How honey bees survive winter
Honey bees do not hibernate. They form a cluster, shiver to generate heat, eat their stores and move slowly through the comb — and most colony losses happen in this period.
The cluster
As temperatures fall below about 14 °C the colony forms a ball around the queen. The outer bees pack tightly, forming an insulating mantle several bees thick; the inner bees are looser and generate heat by shivering their flight muscles.
The cluster's outer surface is held at around 8-10 °C. The centre sits at about 20-25 °C when there is no brood, rising to 34-35 °C as soon as brood rearing resumes in late winter. Bees rotate between the cold mantle and the warm interior.
Winter bees
Bees reared in late summer and autumn are physiologically distinct from summer bees. They carry enlarged fat bodies and high levels of vitellogenin, a storage protein, and they live five to six months instead of six weeks. A colony's ability to overwinter depends almost entirely on producing enough of them.
This is the mechanism by which varroa kills colonies. Mites feeding on autumn brood produce winter bees with reduced fat bodies and shortened lives, and the colony dwindles through winter and collapses in late February or March — frequently with stores still in the hive.
What can go wrong
| Cause | What happens |
|---|---|
| Varroa and associated viruses | Winter bees are damaged in autumn; the colony dwindles and collapses |
| Isolation starvation | The cluster cannot move to stores in prolonged cold |
| Insufficient stores | The colony eats through what it has before spring forage |
| Nosema and dysentery | Made worse by honeydew stores, which are high in indigestible sugars |
| Damp | More damaging than cold; condensation dripping on the cluster kills |
| Queen failure | No brood in spring and no means of replacing her |
What decides whether a colony survives
Cold on its own kills few colonies. What kills them is a combination: too little food, too few bees, no laying queen, winter bees damaged by mites, and damp, each making the others worse. A small cluster loses heat faster for every bee in it and burns more food per bee; a colony short of food cannot afford the heat a small cluster needs; mite-damaged winter bees die early and leave the cluster smaller still.
Two of these can be measured going into winter. Autumn colony size predicted survival better than the geographic origin of the stock in a study of colonies in the north-eastern United States, and Britain's National Bee Unit treats stores and adult population as the two strongest predictors it has. Its six winter checks — enough food, enough bees, a queen, no disease, no pests, a sound hive — are a fair summary of the whole list.
Moisture, ventilation and insulation
Burning honey makes water. The vapour from a wintering cluster condenses on whatever is coldest in the hive, and if that is the inner cover above the bees it drips back onto them. The National Bee Unit's advice is to keep hives rain-proof, let condensation run out of the entrance by tilting the hive slightly forward, and rely on the ventilation the roof, entrance and floor already give; it says damp, rather than cold, is what kills.
Insulation is where the evidence has moved. Measurements of common hives and of tree cavities found heat leaving the hives roughly four to seven times faster than a typical tree nest, which suggests that wild colonies in thick-walled cavities live with less heat loss and higher humidity than colonies in thin wooden boxes. The two positions are less opposed than they sound: both say water must not fall on the cluster, and the National Bee Unit itself allows insulation in harsh winters, provided ventilation is kept.
Stores, feeding and checking in winter
| Question | The biology | UK practice (National Bee Unit) | What changes elsewhere |
|---|---|---|---|
| How much food | Enough carbohydrate to fuel the cluster until forage returns, plus the extra that brood rearing burns in late winter | About 20 kg of honey in autumn (18–22 kg in the feeding guideline); a full British Standard brood frame holds about 2.3 kg | Length of the foodless season, colony size and hive type |
| How to make up a shortfall | Bees must take syrup down and evaporate it while it is warm enough to fly | Thick syrup in early autumn; fondant once it is too cold for syrup | When the weather turns, and what feed is customary |
| Protein | Brood cannot be reared without pollen | Make sure colonies have pollen late and early in the season; supplements only with care not to start brood at the wrong time | The forage calendar |
| Where the food is | A cluster cannot cross cold comb to reach stores | Check on a mild day whether the cluster touches stores; move frames or put fondant over the cluster | How long cold spells last |
Checking a wintering colony is a balance between knowing and disturbing. Hefting — lifting one side of the hive, then the other — tracks weight without opening anything, but it cannot show isolation starvation. A look inside should be brief, on a mild day when some bees are flying, and only when there is a reason; the National Bee Unit puts it at around twenty seconds. A clear inner cover lets a beekeeper see the cluster without letting the heat out.
What other bees do instead
The honey bee's strategy is unusual. Almost all other bees do not overwinter as a colony at all.
- Bumblebees — the colony dies entirely. Only mated new queens survive, hibernating alone underground.
- Solitary bees — the offspring overwinter in the sealed cell as a prepupa or an adult, and the parents are long dead.
- Stingless bees — perennial colonies in the tropics, with no winter to survive.
- Arctic bumblebees — the same annual cycle as temperate species, compressed into an eight-week summer.
This is why honey bees store honey and other bees do not. An annual colony has no reason to store more than a few days' buffer; a perennial one in a cold climate must store several months of food.
Sources
- The Lives of Bees: The Untold Story of the Honey Bee in the Wild — Princeton University Press (2019) · Monograph
- The Biology of the Honey Bee — Harvard University Press (1987) · Textbook
- Bumblebees: Behaviour, Ecology, and Conservation — Oxford University Press (2010) · Monograph
- Preparing honey bee colonies for winter (Fact Sheet 19) — National Bee Unit, Animal and Plant Health Agency (2026) · Regulatory guidance Link
- Feeding sugar to bees (Best Practice Guideline No. 7a) — National Bee Unit, Animal and Plant Health Agency (2026) · Regulatory guidance Link
- Overwintering honey bees: biology and management — Current Opinion in Insect Science (2015) · Peer-reviewed article Link
- Colony size, rather than geographic origin of stocks, predicts overwintering success in honey bees in the northeastern United States — Journal of Economic Entomology (2019) · Peer-reviewed article Link
- Ratios of colony mass to thermal conductance of tree and man-made nest enclosures of Apis mellifera: implications for survival, clustering, humidity regulation and Varroa destructor — International Journal of Biometeorology (2016) · Peer-reviewed article
- Endothermic heat production in honeybee winter clusters — Journal of Experimental Biology (2003) · Peer-reviewed article
- Honeybee colony thermoregulation – regulatory mechanisms and contribution of individuals in dependence on age, location and thermal stress — PLoS ONE (2010) · Peer-reviewed article Link
How sources are selected and weighted is set out in the sources and evidence policy.
Read next
- How bees regulate hive temperatureHow the cluster regulates its temperature.
- Why bees store honeyWhy honey bees store and other bees do not.
- Varroa and the health of a honey bee colonyThe principal cause of winter loss.
- The bee year: three timetables running at onceThe colony year as phases, and how other climates differ.
- Reading a colony: what an inspection can and cannot tell youWhat to look for, and what an observation can and cannot show.
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